#SuzyPFW Reflections: Miu Miu Walks The Line Between Serious And Frivolous

In the whirl of excitement that fills the packed Paris shows, the real changes in fashion only start to trickle through after the presentations and events take place.

Spring/Summer 2019 is proposing new shapes and a less frenetic pace, with a focus on fabric but with lengthening hemlines seeping into the collections.

The Miu Miu presentation was a powerful example of change. The collection first appeared to be youthful and lightweight with its repeated ruche of material creating a whirl of a bow towards one shoulder. On closer inspection however, there was a contrast to the frou-frou effects with a millennial tinge.

Remove the set design of huge, white Ms, Is, and Us towering overhead in the semi-darkness, and the context of the Spring/Summer 2019 show was often sober.

Miuccia Prada had balanced “tween-age” looks of revealing bared legs and sexy dresses with solid coats and jackets worn with over-the-knee skirts. It was almost as if the designer were pondering which way fashion should move in relation to length and body cover-ups.

Although Miu Miu was on the last day of shows over four weeks in four separate cities, the offerings were in no way superfluous – more an affirmation of powerful trends.

The lengthening of skirts to over-the-knee was a major statement, yet a deliberately confusing one, because some of the Miu Miu skirt fabrics were semi-transparent, thus negating the concept of a cover up.

But other aspects created a new look: a denim section introduced dresses with hemlines reaching to mid-calf. Above all, a third of the show was dedicated to tailoring, sombre thigh-length jackets or knee-length leather coats.

I can remember coats at Miu Miu from past collections, especially pretty things in macaroon colours. This new season’s solemn outerwear seemed appropriate to a period when women may feel obliged to dress in response to aggressive times.