#SuzyNYFW: Jeremy Scott Presents Creative Anger
Backstage, Jeremy Scott, with rapper Cardi B to cheer him on, wore a T-shirt emblazoned with politics.
The subject was the LA designer’s anger that Republican Judge Brett Kavanaugh was nominated to the Supreme Court by President Trump.
With the designer’s fighting words in print came a new spirit in his Spring/ Summer 2019 show.
There were no more cooky, quirky looks and jokey messages. Instead came a revival of Punk anarchy – tough attitudes, graffiti style, one-word slogans, primary coloured plaids and some strong anti-Establishment messages.
“These are aggressive times. I have to use my voice to get the message out,” he said. “We need to ensure that we keep LGBT rights, women’s rights, women’s reproductive rights, affirmative action – there’s a lot at stake right now.”
“It’s a serious era, but I still feel joyful – we have to!” he continued. “We have to be optimistic at the same time and you always have to give colour and beauty. These are all part of my inspiration.”
And those words just about summed up the Jeremy Scott Spring/Summer 2019 show, where Polaroid photographs of the designer at the start of his career in the late Nineties made a pattern print on clothes, bags, and the basketball boots that walked the show.
The slogans spelt out his message in a powerful way. “SHOCK, SEX, REVOLT” read a pull-down top that served as a sweater dress for women in high-rise boots.
“RIOT, REVOLT, POWER, HOT” shouted the men’s version, popping out in bright colours and proving that the designer might not be downhearted for long.
The blasts from the past and the rough energy of punk plaid combined well with Scott’s new finesse in cutting and shaping. It made for a strong and unexpected show.
The designer’s own words were revealing: “Rewind to 1996, New York. Fashion design student Jeremy Scott imagines a runway collection in a gender-fluid, post-modern world. He takes self-portrait Polaroids, experimenting with different looks and identities influenced by a spectrum of icons. From the paintings of Toulouse Lautrec to Blade Runner’s ‘replicant’, Pris, he envisions a day when he will look back on his own interpretation of these archetypal muses – a post-millennial Jeremy Scott drawing inspiration from a past self.
“He sees a day when the gender-blending nature of his look isn’t so radically shocking but rather modern, even celebrated, and uses these photographs as a mood board, with himself as his own ‘Meta Muse’.”
Scott’s vision is about drawing his past dreams into the present. So eclectic patches of neon-quilted leather were stitched with sportswear mesh in a series of Motocross jackets, boots, and trousers. These were retro-fitted with vintage army-surplus gear, re-imagined in athletic silhouettes and high-heeled overall-boots covered in iridescent sequins, to evoke a “utilitarian aesthetic as a high-fashion hybrid”.
Bravo to Jeremy Scott for making his dreams of the past come true today.