#SuzyNYFW: Colour Coding At Sies Marjan And Mansur Gavriel

Sies Marjan: Sweet shades

Bathed in a moody mix of purple through lilac to lavender, the backdrop lighting alone of the Sies Marjan show proved again, in its fifth season, that designer Sander Lak has an exceptional eye for colour.

The clothes themselves – for both sexes – made the ability to mix an appealing palette even more evident. Colours moved from forest green to eau de nil and from pink to orange. But the strong steps forward included texture as well as mixed shades. So furry fabrics with ombré colours shifting from russet to blue-grey were matched in a silk jersey dress that followed the contours of the body.

It was as though the designer had worked out that shadowy shades can be as potent as a richer, brighter orange, the colours moving like a sunset sky against the changing backdrop. Colours had previously seemed to be more urgent than the fit to Sander Lak, but draped pleats shaped to the body proved that the king of colour is moving forward.

Mansur Gavriel: A demure spectrum

Their bucket bags achieved cult status, but the flowers that served as scenery for the Mansur Gavriel show signalled that things are growing.

Behind the label are Floriana Gavriel and Rachel Mansur, who founded their leather goods company only in 2012, but now balance their accessories with full-blown collections of clothes. They came in shades of rose pink moving slowly to ginger, yellow through green, grey blue and one splash of red.

This, their second ready-to-wear show, looked like a current collection and it’s titled as Spring 2018, but there was no specific ‘See Now, Buy Now’ label on these quietly appealing outfits, many in semi-transparent layers to pretty effect.

But don’t forget the bags! A black and white drawstring bag, as might once have been seen as a sewing pouch, or just a forest green leather handbag, caught a gentle moment. But the ‘in-the-pink’ semi-transparent layers still seemed a backdrop rather than in the forefront.