#SuzyNYFW: A New Summer Of Love At Anna Sui
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds played on the soundtrack as models of today – led by Gigi Hadid and her sister Bella – walked the runway in layers of hippie-deluxe outfits worn with all the careless joy of Woodstock.
“But it’s not about the past – I was thinking about what we need now,” said Anna Sui. “We need to change things,” the designer continued. “It has to be positive, it has to be optimism and sparkling and glitter, and just – dreaming. Because we’re not dreaming anymore!”
Backstage, the designer hugged Zandra Rhodes, the British designer who, earlier this year, held a tribute to her friend via an exhibit at London’s Fashion and Textile Museum. That was not a retrospective, but rather a mash-up of different themes – much like the show itself.
Sui’s kaleidoscope eyes seemed to have taken in all her past – the colours, patterns, textures and prints on male and female garments – from head (long, loose hair) to toe (mostly calf high boots).
But the overall effect was modern and joyous, raising some of the largest cheers at this 2018 summer of love.
What is the allure of these collages of colourful and often familiar clothes?
First, the designer knows how to press the ‘refresh’ button. The opening pair of male/female models included Hadid and showed blue flower patterns for both sexes. Whether or not they were digital prints, the duo’s look was modern.
Mixing and meshing colour and pattern could have seemed timeworn, but sexily shaped denim shorts and zodiac motifs all seemed different from previous outings.
Pattern is, of course, back in fashion now after decades of lying fallow. Sui knows how to use changing scales of colour – and when to switch from a shout to a whisper. And in return, the audience got into the let-it-rock spirit.