#SuzyNYFW: A Fresh Colour Palette At The Row

In times like these…” said the Olsen twins elliptically to hint at a reason why Mary Kate and Ashley had decided to introduce colour – and often sweet shades like pink – into their spring/summer 2018 collection.

Conditioned to neutral shades – which were still used for pieces like floor-sweeping cream and beige tailored coats – the duo challenged their house codes with painterly colours. Those crept in first as wine dark shades for soft, wide skirts appearing under the hem of neutral coloured coats; then as bolder images of long coats entirely in rose pink. There were also elongated dresses in shades of lilac or raspberry.

“We have done colour before – but not really in the show,” said Ashley before the models had walked through a series of rooms dressed with breakfast tables and lily of the valley flowers.

The Row offers a specific experience and a certain position on New York’s fashion calendar. In an era when blasting music and a celebrity front row are commonplace to grab attention, the duo deliberately takes a different stance. The ladylike breakfast in the uptown Carlyle hotel was this season’s setting.

The softness and intricacy of the details has been going on over the last three seasons. Yet the concept of draping and shaping dresses across the body looked not revolutionary, but fresh – just like those artfully arranged sprigs as posies in a glass jar.