#SuzyNYFW: A Cultural Stillness From The Row
It is rare to see a fashion inspiration when the clothes look like they were meant to be. But from the moment guests walked into a room filled with sculptures by Japanese artist Isamu Noguchi, it felt as though the set of The Row’s show would be in harmony with the clothes.
And so it was. The spherical stones were soon reflected in graceful coats – both in the neutral shades and the gently rounded cut.
“We’ve been wanting to work with Noguchi for a while,” Ashley said, explaining how she and her twin sister Mary Kate developed their collection. “We were working on a lot of techniques, then we saw things in the sculptures and worked them out in our designs,” said Ashley.
Harmonising the setting with their clothes is not a new idea from this fashion sisterhood. Last season, The Row show was held over a breakfast in Manhattan’s historic Carlyle Hotel. This time, even the delicate Japanese canapés offered to guests fitted in with the story.
Did the designs, from a shapely black coat to a noble white dress, mirror the artworks? There was an even richer backstory, including the twins’ appreciation of Noguchi’s friendships with non-conformist 20th-century women, from Martha Graham to Ginger Rogers. Then add the fact that the Japanese artist worked in the 1930s for Harper’s Bazaar and designed costumes for dance and theatre.
That seems to be a lot to digest for a ten-minute show. But it was to the credit of the designers, with their sense of minimalism-with-warmth, that they could capture the spirit of the sculptures, even in a white dress. It was much more detailed in close-up than from a distance – just like those Noguchi works of art.