#SuzyMFW: Off-Piste: Milan’s Quirky, Cool Or Different Designers
Antonio Marras: My inspiration, my father; my passion, Modigliani
A poet, an actor, a dreamer – all of the above apply to Antonio Marras, who, season after season, proves that he is Milan’s fashion original.
Amedeo Clemente Modigliani, known by his last name and for the elongated figures in his paintings, was the inspiration, with the familiar Marras dive into a complex story. The key was Sardinia, his own base and the temporary home of the artist.
Home is where the heart is for Marras and his wife, Patrizia, who worked with him and other members of his family in patch techniques that he’d seen his father use on worn garments.
But Marras went deeper and further than usual into the bohemian, and not just the life of an artist. There was also a passionate love story in the underground show space, where political arguments from Southern Italy’s turbulent past vied for attention with an Italian version of the Rolling Stones.
The clothes themselves were nuanced and layered, mixing simple floral dresses or mannish tailoring for the women, for menswear modelled by arty-looking males.
The effect was intensely decorative, fascinating, and another example of the exceptional Marras storytelling around his interesting, but never weird, clothes.
Fay: Arthur Arbesser in his own words
“This season, Fay is about layering, things that you can take off and turn into something else,” said Arthur Arbesser, the creative director of this Italian heritage brand.
“We wanted to make it a real classic wardrobe that can accompany you from Monday to Sunday. The collection is divided into weekend and city – a loose, urban wardrobe whether you go to the office, to your law firm or to a hospital if you were a doctor.”
This season, Arbesser included “little leather gilets that you can put on top of coats and, when you take it off, you have a very smart coat. Then you put it on top of a denim jacket and it becomes something else again. We offer it with long sleeves, with a little puffer thing underneath. The concept is a sense of reality and calmness with good taste.”
“We wanted to make a beautiful collection that’s not only for young kids want, so I’ve made it ageless. My parents want it and my young nephew. This is like an English lady cutting roses in her garden, with plenty of water and wellington boots.”
Plan C by Carolina Castiglioni
From the famous fashion family behind Marni, but now exiled from the brand, Carolina Castiglioni is trying to keep the flag flying – her way.
“This is my personal approach, it’s for Spring/Summer, a mix of urban and elegance. They’re pieces you can wear every day, but that are touched with elegance.”
As an example, the designer mixed a dirndl skirt in viscose with a much sportier top.
Just eight months after she’d started, she opened an in-store shop in Tokyo, suggesting that her designs, often with long skirts and big jackets, has an ease that is already appealing to customers worldwide.
Showing in tandem was her Venezuelan sister-in-law, jewellery designer Cynthia Vilchez Castiglioni, who based this season’s collection on tennis. Rackets and even tennis courts set in a half-moon hoops, suggested another creative spirit with a sporty soul.