#SuzyCouture: Armani Privé Sees Through the Clouds
The climax of Giorgio Armani’s vision of “his” woman came at the end of the collection when, after a display of short, ultra-feminine, above-the-knee dresses or fancy evening shorts, a new vision appeared.
Walking just a half-step ahead of their tuxedo-clad men, the Armani Privé women wore slender, ankle-length dresses with just a satin bow or crystal sparkle of sequins to dress them up for the red carpet – where they surely belong. Almost-flat shoes with a sturdy strap added to the sense of a fashion reality check.
Backstage, while greeting stars including Marion Cotillard, Isabelle Huppert and Diane Kruger, Armani may have said that his inspiration was “clouds”, but he did not have his head in the clouds when making the Privé collection fit for purpose for his many less famous clients.
The hazy pattern of the sky appeared immediately as the show opened, but on a decorative scarf whorled into a flower on the lapel of a tailored jacket. Trousers, in fine silk and satin fabrics, continued a no-nonsense attitude.
These streamlined designs at the beginning of the Privé collection were in harmony with the cloudy patterns. But they appeared far less convincing when the designer switched to a “feminine” series of outfits. The ultra-short satin dresses and pointed-toe, high-heeled shoes, tied with a satin bow, confirmed the message of more “female” fashion. When shorts formed the bottom half, this look for Spring/Summer 2018 seemed even less convincing.
Of course we know that the essence of couture is that the client makes the choice. And imagining those shorts elongated to slim trousers, still revealing cloud-patterned hosiery at the ankle, would lend the Privé look an essential elegance.