#SuzyPFW Rick Owens’ Burning Tower
Since I can only hobble after a crashing fall at Saint Laurent, I could not have my usual deeply informative conversation with Rick Owens before or after the show.
So for this summer 2019 collection I decided to look not for a meaning, but just as a focus for the eyes.
And what a show it was! The models wrapped and draped in black or neutral colours, blown up or skinny to the body, walked around the Palais de Tokyo. They passed under golden autumn trees and alongside the drained pool, where a pyramid-shaped structure swiftly caught fire.
Whatever its meaning, the flames seemed menacing and a little scary, as if Owens was enraged about what was going on in the world and his native America.
But the fire made it all the better to see the clothes that seemed like sculptures – beautiful as a line-up of layers in icy blue framed by ginger. Or a similar effect on mountainous pieces, in olive green and pale blue on a male (although gender seemed fluid).
Then there was black, the designer’s constant colour choice, for so many pieces, but always with different textures, from cut-out shiny leather to draped full suede.
There was a sporty feel to many of the pieces, but more in puffed-up materials – not the athleisure that is powering through fashion. Strange, mediaeval looking crowns were on some heads.
The designer is extraordinarily skilful, with constant creation that is different – if not always radically so – from the season before. I believe this is the fourth time we have sat around the (previously full) pond with another rendez-vous in the brutal concrete cellar of the same building.
Owens is an artist and a deep thinker. And maybe it was good for me to simply absorb his work rather than asking him for an answer.