#SuzyPFW Gucci: Third And Final Tribute To France

Gucci’s last show in May was held in a cemetery in the South of France. The summer 2019 collection in Paris this week was all about bringing a part of French fashion history back from the dead.

As the voice of Jane Birkin singing ‘Baby Alone in Babylone’ from her torrid years with Serge Gainsbourg in the Seventies/Eighties, it suddenly became clear that she herself was singing. It sent a shiver of emotion through Le Palace theatre in Montmartre – the nightclub in Paris where Yves Saint Laurent writhed in a velvet jacket on the dance floor with LouLou de la Falaise defining ‘hippie de luxe’.

The Gucci maximalism has now reached a point when a model in layers of shimmering shocking pink and a vast feather boa looks positively low key. How could it compete with the blonde curls of Dolly Parton appearing on the back of a jacket and a moulded Mickey Mouse turned into a handbag?

The astonishing line-up of over-the-top maximalism was reinforced by each model walking through the deep-carpet covered stalls ending up all together on the stage.

The colours! Grass green, shocking pink and purple everywhere. The shoulders! But drawn in the round as if with a compass – not the severe square of the Eighties. Big hats, huge sunglasses; menswear to the max with a shower of silvered pearls, and a fruit shaped necklace on a sparkling lilac sweater.

It was impossible to take in everything in this parade – or in the abstract film by Italian duo Leo de Berardinis and Perla Peragallo, to whom Alessandro wrote a printed message of appreciation of their “delusional, wild, fragmented plots”. He might have been talking about himself.

But there was a lot of self-expression to come as the designer, describing himself from under his cap as “exhausted”, talked first about “the wonderful place” that is Le Palace and the powerful memories it evoked, as if, to him, the theatre was packed with ghosts offering “a stream of humanity”.

Alessandro offers to fashion deep thinking that presents in all its raw energy a fascinating revelation of a creative mind. Oh! And all those wondrous layers of decorative clothes.