#SuzyPFW: Saint Laurent And The Light Fantastic
The feet! Discombobulated feet in scarlet high heeled shoes walking the line in front of a glitter fest of twinkling lights. This is Saint Laurent in the digital age.
Designer Anthony Vaccarello made a show to remember, a stunning presentation of a famous back history moved into the current period of multiple devices, with constant echoes of the past.
There was no Betty Catroux sitting front row, but a look-a-like was up there on stage, with her blonde hair and distinctive blunt fringe, dressed in black, her personal passion.
And there was Catherine Deneuve in person, fresh from selling up a storm with her YSL wardrobe – featured on the runway with dramatic coat-hanger shoulders on a tailored coat.
The effect was witty and the clothes desirable – especially if you had legs to dream of that could be shown off in a pair of velvet rompers.
“The first part of the show was inspired by Betty and Catherine, so I really worked around the architecture of the clothes, so everything starts on the shoulder,” said Vaccarello who literally had the wide shoulder/narrow hips down to a ’T’.
Just in case the audience, mesmerised by the winking lights, didn’t get the shape, the designer might add an outsize bow at one shoulder or a velvet bodice shaped like a ‘V’.
“I don’t want to talk about (the) oversized silhouette that everyone is doing – it’s more a structure with a very straight silhouette,” said Vaccarello. “I just wanted to give even more power to women – but she is not a warrior, not mean – just confident.”
This Saint Laurent collection was built on the architecture of tailoring, which could not have been better executed. Brief steps into a wilder side included a crocodile jacket or every designer’s favourite: leopard print.
Vaccarello spoke about “positive pop and vibrancy” especially with fluorescent lighting that had a glow-in-the-dark effect. A particular concept?
“The lights came just because we have to do a show – and to do a show you need the lights,” said the designer about the finale in UV.
“I prefer to do it as decoration,” he continued. “ But there is nothing conceptual about the lighting.”
There were fleeting references to the YSL China and Opium years in the late 70s. And there were some more solid menswear looks, where trousers were never chopped into shorts.
But, as ever with the current Saint Laurent shows, you were left in both awe – and wanting more.