#SuzyMFW: Giorgio Armani – Impressionist Flowers
Who would have guessed the word that Giorgio Armani would use to define his show? The one time maestro of minimalism, who would arrange the exact position of models to take a joint bow, announced the inspiration of the spring /summer 2018 collection.
“Impressionism,” he said.
And yes! Those words made sense to describe the softly shaded flower patterns, starting with floral skirts or dresses. The motifs burst bud on trouser suits, pouring down to ankle hems. Patterned bags were part of the floral froth.
The soft, sweet shades, so decorative and pretty, seemed far removed from the ‘Il Signor Beige (‘Mr Beige’) of the designer’s early career.
And far also from the masculine look that dominated eighties and nineties Armani.
Apart from the ‘beanie cap’ hairstyle, as worn by Demi Moore in the 1990 film Ghost, the focus was on femininity. It was only half way through the show that the designer sent out two male models in jackets and trousers in tones of grey. They were followed by just half a dozen female versions in silver grey organza with silken bottom halves.
Yet the essence of Armani’s work has always been to execute everything his way. So in a desire to be coherent, every fresh idea is sucked into his vortex of creation. A trouser suit in chiffon means streamlined tailoring for jacket and trousers with lilac, pink and blue thread.
The days when Armani shows would take a definite step from day clothes to gowns ended over a decade ago when, in 2005, Armani, a rigorously organised designer, began using the Privé collection during Paris couture to show red carpet.
The closest to an ‘event’ outfit in the spring/summer 2018 show was a party top and dark trousers wrapped in a spider’s web of little bobbles.
But then the day clothes also had competition from the Emporio Armani show staged less than a week go in London.
Where does this show fit into the Armani territory? The designer is really a law unto himself. Nothing that he showed in Milan made a fashion statement which might ripple worldwide.
But from his total immersion in everything he creates, it was all quintessentially Armani.