#SuzyLFW: Subtle Influences From Africa
There has always been a fine line between art and fashion. Roksanda proved that by holding her show in the gardens of London’s Serpentine Gallery. Here, African architect Francis Kéré had created a pavilion inspired by traditional structures in the villages of Burkina Faso, where he was born.
The circular wooden “roof” of the temporary construction, held aloft by metal poles, like artistic scaffolding, was juxtaposed with Roksanda’s clothes.
Against this background, which included the greenery surrounding the art gallery, Roksanda sent out a strong but soft collection, interesting both in cut and colour.
After the fresh loveliness of loose, snow-white dresses standing away from the body, with ruffles around the hemline, came outfits with a slim, long silhouette and bold splashes of pattern.
As with so many of the clothes at the London shows, the designer’s hemlines tended to be ankle length. Narrow trousers – one pair in a vivid, shocking pink – were the alternative to the elongated silhouettes.
Roksanda has always leaned towards bright colours, but after red and yellow came more earthy shades, in mud brown and beige as well as that particularly African rich blue. Clusters of hairy decoration, resembling raffia or thatch, were another hint of the tribal.
Perhaps influenced by the swathes of fabric wrapped around the body in traditional African dress, the designer moved away from her favourite geometric shapes. There were no wraps and folds, but a general feeling of something more fluid that seemed right for now.