#SuzyNYFW Gabriela Hearst: Art In Her Heart
As she explained the stories behind her creations, Gabriela Hearst talked about her many artistic inspirations.
“The main one was the creative partnership between Jorge Luis Borges and María Kodama,” she explained.
“Then there are the colours from three paintings by Hieronymus Bosch in the Prado Museum,” she continued.
“And the jewellery I took from a Quentin Massys’ painting – ‘Christ presented to the People’.”
Phew! Since Gabriela told me about her many inspirations before the show, I expected clothes with layers of complexity.
But, instead, there were streamlined dresses, flaring to a hem just above the ankle. And her more familiar severe tailored trouser suit, but offered in a rich palette of colours, especially shades of pink – from cherry blossom to cherry brandy.
Gabriela had different categories of fabric for her designs, some jacquard, others embroidered. But with the heart of her work in the wool from the family ranch in Uragui, there was not quite enough focus on knits.
Like just about every female fashion designer, Gabriela is really aiming this collection at herself, which rules out anyone not elongated and elegant.
But the designer seems to be trying different paths for her work, and has already taken strong strides forward.
The company is moving ahead with shoes with cork heels, chosen for sustainability. And her irresistible handbags, sold to the few as art objects.
“At the end of the day, what we do is provide a service,” she said.
“Artists are responsible to their self expression. But my role is a service to other women.”