#SuzyMFW: Moncler Tries a New Piste
A vast pillar of figures rose from floor to ceiling in one survival tent. In another, people in ski clothes were walking, sliding, running up diagonally before my eyes – until I realised that the vaulting people were reflected in a vast mirror.
Welcome to Moncler Genius – although the magic in this case came from Remo Ruffini, the CEO of a company that started by designing ski wear and launched the down-filled puffer jacket which has taken over the world of winter warmth.
Now, after a decade of glory, aided by designers Giambattista Valli and Thom Browne, Moncler is trying another piste.
“Creativity is our energy, it drives us forward,” was Ruffiini’s credo, as the eight survival tents opened up with their entirely different visions.
The conceptual architecture of British menswear designer Craig Green competed for attention with the soft sculptures of Valentino designer Pierpaolo Piccioli.
“I accepted this project because it talks about freedom and the values of creativity and talent, the designer said. “And then I wanted to get the idea of purity as close to the identity, getting the essence of the Moncler DNA – the brand plus my own identity.”
He continued: “I thought it was good to do something out of time out of space, so like the paintings of Renaissance but in a very technical way, with nylon, with the most ordinary materials, not fantastic fabrics or with embroideries – just with shapes and colour. That’s what I wanted to do.”
The Moncler concept is to have a perpetual feed of creative energy from the different designers whose ideas – and the clothes that are produced from the results – will go on sale in the company’s stores and in a few pop-up shops.
The concept is therefore about refreshment and imagination from the outside. Simone Rocha, for example, took the dreamy historical attitude into puffer clothes worn with accessories, with the models walking along a mountain path; while Kei Ninomiya, from the Japanese Noir brand, created tiny clusters of flowers.
So every type and taste could find something to their liking. Add in dogs, who performed a little twirl, wrapped, of course, in Moncler jackets.